Bucatini all'Amatriciana

Step 1

Cut the guanciale lengthwise into two thin strips, then slice each strip crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide matchsticks the length of your pinky finger, separating any pieces stuck together.

Step 2

Pour the canned tomatoes into a bowl and crush them by hand or with the back of a spoon until they break into rough chunks about the size of grapes, about 30 seconds.

Step 3

Fill a large pot halfway with water, add 1.5 teaspoons of salt, and bring to a rolling boil over high heat—large bubbles should break constantly across the surface, about 8 minutes.

Step 4

While water heats, place the guanciale pieces in a large skillet over medium heat and stir once every 30 seconds until the fat turns translucent and the meat begins to brown at the edges, about 4 minutes.

Step 5

Pour the crushed tomatoes into the skillet with the guanciale, stir once to combine, and adjust heat to medium-low so the sauce bubbles gently—just a few small bubbles breaking the surface every few seconds.

Step 6

Let the sauce simmer gently while you cook the pasta, about 10 minutes total, until the tomatoes look darker and less watery and the oil shines on the surface.

Step 7

When the water reaches a rolling boil, drop in the bucatini and stir with a wooden spoon for 10 seconds to prevent sticking, then let it cook uncovered.

Step 8

Taste a single strand of pasta after 8 minutes—it should bend with a tiny bit of resistance in the center when bitten (al dente); if still hard, wait 1 more minute and test again.

Step 9

Drain the pasta in a colander placed over the sink, reserving 1 cup of the starchy pasta water by scooping it out before draining.

Step 10

Pour the drained pasta directly into the skillet with the sauce and remove from heat, then toss continuously with a wooden spoon for 30 seconds to coat every strand.

Step 11

If the pasta looks dry or clumpy, add 2 tablespoons of the reserved pasta water, toss for another 15 seconds, and repeat until it looks glossy and slides easily in the pan.

Step 12

Divide the pasta between two bowls, sprinkle 0.5 ounces of grated Pecorino Romano over each portion, crack fresh black pepper across the top, and serve immediately.