Boston Brown Bread

Step 1

Fill a large pot (at least 8 quarts) halfway with water and bring it to a boil over high heat — you'll be steaming the bread using boiling water, so this is your cooking vessel. While the water heats, prepare the bread mixture.

Step 2

In a medium bowl, whisk together 0.75 cup whole wheat flour, 0.75 cup rye flour, 0.75 cup cornmeal, 1 teaspoon baking soda, and 0.75 teaspoon fine sea salt until evenly combined. Make sure there are no clumps of baking soda — breaking them up now prevents bitter pockets in the bread.

Step 3

In a separate larger bowl, whisk together 1 cup unsulfured molasses, 1 cup unsweetened applesauce, and 0.5 cup water until completely smooth. If you're using raisins, stir in 0.75 cup of them now — they'll plump slightly as they soak.

Step 4

Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir with a wooden spoon until just combined — the batter will be thick and slightly lumpy, like cake batter. Do not overmix; stop as soon as no flour streaks remain.

Step 5

Lightly oil two 4-cup coffee cans or pudding molds (or one 8-cup mold if you have it) with neutral oil — this prevents the bread from sticking. If using coffee cans, leave the tops open. Divide the batter evenly between the cans, filling each about three-quarters full.

Step 6

Cover each can tightly with aluminum foil, shiny side down, to prevent water from dripping into the bread. You can also use the original plastic lids if they're heatproof.

Step 7

Carefully lower the covered cans into the boiling water using tongs — the water should come halfway up the sides of the cans. The water should be boiling steadily but not violently. Reduce the heat to medium-high so the water maintains a gentle, rolling boil.

Step 8

Cover the pot partially with a lid to trap steam while allowing some ventilation — this keeps the water hot but prevents overflow. Steam for 3 to 3.5 hours. The bread is done when a wooden skewer inserted into the center comes out clean or with just a few moist crumbs. Check the water level every 45 minutes, adding more boiling water if it drops below the halfway mark on the cans.

Step 9

Carefully remove the cans from the hot water using tongs and let them cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Run a thin knife around the inside edge of each can to loosen the bread, then turn it out onto the rack to cool completely — about 30 minutes. The bread will be very tender when warm, so handle it gently.

Step 10

Once completely cool, slice the bread into 0.5-inch-thick rounds using a serrated bread knife with a gentle sawing motion — the bread is dense and moist, so a sharp knife and a light touch prevent crushing. Serve at room temperature or toast lightly. Boston brown bread keeps refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days, and it reheats beautifully in a steamer or on a covered plate in the oven at 300°F for 10 minutes.