Irish Crubeens

Step 1

Remove the 4 pork trotters from the refrigerator and place them in a large 8-quart stainless steel pot. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, drain the trotters in a colander and rinse each one under cool running water until the water runs clear — this removes impurities and fat that would cloud the broth. Scrub the skin gently with your fingertips to remove any remaining hair. Set aside.

Step 2

Cut 1 medium yellow onion in half, leaving the papery skin on — the skin will add color to the broth. Leave the 2 medium carrots halved lengthwise and unpeeled. Cut the 2 celery stalks into 3-inch pieces. These rough-cut vegetables will simmer in the broth; you're not eating them, just flavoring the liquid.

Step 3

Return the cleaned trotters to the same pot and add 3 quarts of fresh cold water — the liquid should cover them by 2 inches. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons of kosher salt and add the 1 tablespoon of whole black peppercorns, the 4 thyme sprigs, and the 2 bay leaves. If using Irish stout, pour in the 0.5 cup now — it adds a subtle malty depth to the broth.

Step 4

Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer over medium-high heat, skimming off any gray foam that rises to the surface with a spoon or skimmer during the first 5 minutes. This foam is coagulated proteins; removing it keeps the broth clear and cleaner-tasting. Add the halved onion, carrots, and celery pieces once the foam stops forming.

Step 5

Reduce the heat to medium-low so the liquid barely bubbles — you should see just an occasional bubble gently break the surface every 2-3 seconds. Partially cover the pot with the lid (leaving a 2-inch gap). Braise the trotters for 2.5 to 3 hours. You'll know they're done when the meat is completely tender and pulls away from the small bones with the gentlest tug of a fork — there should be no resistance.

Step 6

Carefully remove the trotters with tongs and a slotted spoon, placing them on a large cutting board to cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh strainer into a large bowl, discarding the vegetables, peppercorns, and herbs. You should have about 4 cups of silky, golden broth — taste it and season with a pinch more kosher salt if needed.

Step 7

While the trotters are still warm, use your fingers or a small sharp knife to separate the meat and tender skin from the delicate bones. The meat should shred easily. Discard the bones and cartilage. You'll have about 1.5 to 2 cups of tender meat and gelatinous skin — this is the prized part of the crubeen.

Step 8

Gently reheat the broth over medium heat until steaming. Divide the shredded trotter meat and skin among 4 shallow bowls. Ladle the hot broth over each portion, filling the bowl until the meat is just submerged. The meat and skin will have a soft, jiggly texture from the collagen — this is exactly right.

Step 9

Finish each bowl with a pinch of fleur de sel, a light scattering of the 2 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh parsley, and a dollop (about 0.75 tablespoon per bowl) of whole grain mustard stirred right into the broth. Serve immediately with 2 slices of crusty soda bread or white bread per person for dunking and sopping up the savory broth.