Pasta alla Norma

Step 1

Trim the stem end off 1 medium Italian eggplant, then cut it into 3/4-inch cubes — you want pieces large enough to hold their shape but small enough to cook through. Place the cubes in a colander, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of kosher salt, and let them sit for 10 minutes to draw out excess moisture. This step prevents the eggplant from absorbing too much oil and becoming mushy.

Step 2

While the eggplant rests, bring a large pot of salted water (it should taste like the sea) to a rolling boil. You'll use this to cook the pasta in about 5 minutes.

Step 3

Pat the salted eggplant cubes completely dry with paper towels — this is critical for getting them to brown rather than steam. Divide 6 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil between two 10-inch skillets (or work in batches in one skillet) and set both over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers and moves freely across the pan, carefully add the eggplant in a single layer. Do not stir for the first 3 minutes — let them develop a deep golden crust on the bottom. You should hear a steady, energetic sizzle.

Step 4

Stir the eggplant, then continue cooking for another 3-4 minutes until the pieces are golden and tender on all sides. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Step 5

In one of the skillets (no need to clean it), reduce heat to medium. Smash 3 garlic cloves with the flat side of a knife and add them to the hot oil. Sauté for about 1 minute until fragrant — you'll smell a sweet, pungent aroma. The garlic should be just turning golden, not brown.

Step 6

Pour in one 28-ounce can of whole San Marzano tomatoes, crushing them by hand as they go into the pan. Add 0.5 teaspoon of black pepper. Stir well and bring to a gentle simmer. Let the sauce bubble gently for 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it thickens slightly and the raw tomato edge softens. You'll notice the oil beginning to separate from the sauce — this is good. Taste and adjust salt as needed.

Step 7

By now, your pasta water should be at a rolling boil. Add 1 pound of dried pasta (rigatoni or penne work best for this dish) and stir immediately. Cook until just al dente — the pasta should have a slight firmness in the center when you bite it. Check the package timing as your guide, but begin tasting 1-2 minutes before the suggested time.

Step 8

Return the roasted eggplant to the tomato sauce and stir gently. Remove the pan from heat and remove the garlic cloves.

Step 9

Reserve 1 cup of starchy pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta in a colander. Pour the pasta directly into the sauce with the eggplant. Add 3-4 tablespoons of the reserved pasta water and toss gently over low heat for 1-2 minutes — the starchy water helps the sauce coat the pasta evenly and creates a silky consistency.

Step 10

Tear 15 fresh basil leaves by hand and scatter them over the pasta. Divide the pasta among four bowls. Using a microplane or box grater, grate 4 ounces of ricotta salata over each portion, creating a generous snowy topping. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil if desired. Serve immediately while the pasta is still hot.